An Hour and 200 Years Away: In Search of a 93-Year-Old Ham and One of the Oldest Churches in America
© 1998 By Brian Wasson
Smithfield, Virginia, is not the best place to be if you're a pig. But for us humans it's a good destination on a nice fall day. With its recently renovated downtown area the town offers visitors a chance to step back in time and experiece the Virginia of years past.
Known mainly for its "Smithfield" brand hams, Smithfield actually has a lot more going for it than ham sandwiches. The town was settled in 1752 by merchants and ship captains, as it offered convenient access to the James River via the Pagan River which flows through town. Now a National Historic District, the town features buildings from the 1700s and 1800s. Ten of the homes pre-date the Revolutionary War. Many are carefully restored, with the Victorian-era homes being the most impressive (as you pass them, try to imagine keeping up with the outside painting!).
For the best look at the town's houses, pick up the free "Old Towne Walking Tour" brochure, available at the visitor center located in the Old Isle of Wight Courthouse on Main Street (open daily 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.). It offers an array of other useful brochures from which to pick, and an attendant able to answer questions about the area.
From the visitor center, head down to the Isle of Wight County Museum on the corner of Main and Church streets. This small, but interesting, free museum houses a number of displays relating to the area. There is a re-created general store, Native American artifacts, a Civil War display, and even a display on ham-making in Smithfield (don't miss the 93-year-old ham from 1905 -- still preserved). The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., Sunday from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m. (closed Monday).
Antique shops line Main Street, selling everything from fine furniture to old toys. Most of the shops are co-ops, where dealers buy space to display their wares. This results in a nice variety of antiques and collectibles and moderate prices. Other businesses include eateries and art galleries.
If walking around makes you hungry, there are several restaurants in town. The Smithfield Inn on Main Street is a full-service Victorian-style inn, providing food and lodging. Lunch is served Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.; in warmer weather patio dining is available. Phone 757-357-1752.
A block or so down Main Street from the Inn is the more reasonably-priced and much less opulent Smithfield Ice Cream Parlor, where sandwiches are served in addition to ice cream. If you're dying to try some Smithfield ham, they have a "Smithfield Country Ham Sandwich" available for $4.25.
Just outside of the town of Smithfield is St. Luke's Church, billed as the oldest existing church of English foundation in America. Built in 1632 as an Anglican church, the building also served as a colonial meeting hall and courthouse. Although the church has been restored, most of it is original.
Stained glass windows installed throughout the church in the late 1800s are dedicated to various people, the most interesting being Pocahontas, who was reputedly the first convert to Christianity in the colonies.
Outside the church is a cemetery, with stones dating back to Colonial times. Many make for interesting reading; one even has the complete funeral service inscribed in stone, even down to the names of the pallbearers!
Free tours of the church are offered on an as-needed basis, and are available Tuesday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., and Sunday from 1:00 to 4:00 p.m. (closed Monday). St. Luke's is on Route 10, just north of Route 258 (it's on the right). Phone 757-357-3367.
Particulars:
Smithfield is in Isle of Wight county, about a half-hour to an hour from most points in Hampton Roads.
To get to Smithfield from the Southside, take I-664 to exit 9 (Route 17 north). Follow 17 north to Route 258 and turn left. At the junction of Route 258 and Route 10 turn right. In about two miles you'll see signs for Smithfield and Business Route 258 (to the right).
From the Peninsula take the James River bridge (Route 17/258) to where Route 258 turns to the right, then follow the directions above to Smithfield.
The Isle of Wight Tourism Bureau (Smithfield visitor center) is located at Main and Mason streets in Smithfield. Phone 757-357-5182 or 800-365-9339.
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