Wanderlust: When You
Gotta Go, You Gotta Go
A road trip to Knotts
Island, North Carolina
© 1999 By Brian Wasson
Wanderlust. Webster says it means "travel urge." In German, "wandern" means to hike or wander about. "Lust" means desire. Literally, it's a desire to walk or wander about.
Spring seems an especially appropriate time of year to talk about wanderlust. I've always gotten it real bad around April or May. Too much time indoors staring at the TV, I guess. Or maybe it had something to do with reading "On the Road" by Kerouac. Anyway, I want to travel. Somewhere. Anywhere. To just get in the car and go. Usually it manifests itself as a weekend or one-day road trip. Sometimes not. One memorable May a few years back I succumbed big time: My wife and I hit the road to drive to Alaska from Pennsylvania (we're still married, so I guess she didn't mind too much). We were gone five months. That was a road trip.
I know, I know, it's kind of hard to do that kind of thing nowadays, what with jobs, responsibilities, and all that other adult stuff. I feel your pain. But I'm here to help.
This month I'm giving you permission to give in to wanderlust. Heck, I'm even giving you a plan. We're not talking the Alaska Highway. Just a day trip to a remote island where you'll board a ferry and head to greener shores. You may even see a Bald Eagle. So grab the keys, turn on the stereo, and roll down the windows and smell the air. It's travelin' time.
Your destination is Knotts Island in North Carolina, a tiny appendage clinging to the bottom of Virginia Beach. Basically, you take Princess Anne Road south until you can't drive any further. The end of the road, so to speak. It's pretty hard to get lost.
Princess Anne is one of those roads that wanders all over the place. I'll leave it up to you to figure out how to get to it from where you live. Once you find it, point your nose south. Pay attention where it turns left near the Virginia Beach courthouse and then right again at its junction with General Booth Blvd. (look for a 7-11 on the corner). Virginia Beach's "greenbelt" rural area begins just south of here; you'll begin to notice more open space, horse farms, and agricultural activity.
As you continue south you'll pass through a number of small towns, including Pungo, Back Bay and Munden. Pungo is well-known for its Strawberry Festival in May. The area also has several farm markets and you-pick berry patches and.
Just past Munden you'll see a sign on the right for "Munden Point Park," a Virginia Beach city park. It's a great place to stop and eat a picnic lunch and is well worth the one-mile detour. The 100-acre park is located on the banks of the North Landing River and offers picnic tables, restrooms, ballfields, canoe rentals and a boat launch. A beautiful location, it's a destination in its own right.
In North Carolina Princess Anne Rd. turns into NC Route 615 and soon enters the boundaries of Mackay Island National Wildlife Refuge. Mackay Island (say it like the natives: "Mackie") encompasses nearly 9,000 acres and has a long conservation history. The organization "Ducks Unlimited" grew out of an group formed by Joseph Knapp, owner of the island in the early 1900s. The refuge's visitor center is located on the right about a mile after the state line. Stop in for an introduction to the refuge and a close-up look at Currituck Sound just out the back door.
A few miles after entering the refuge you'll cross a long, narrow causeway through the island's marshes. The refuge is located along the Atlantic Flyway, a migratory route for many types of birds. In the spring and fall you're likely to see large rafts of waterfowl resting their wings. Keep your eyes open for birds out on the water, but keep an eye on the road, too -- if you see something be sure to pull to the shoulder before you stop. On a recent trip I saw egrets, herons, ducks, swans, and a large group of snow geese. Take a canoe or kayak along with you . . . it's a great area in which to paddle.
About a mile after the causeway Rt. 615 makes a sharp right turn where it enters Knotts Island. In a mile and a half you'll see a refuge entrance on the right. Turn in and follow the dirt road to the left to a hiking/biking trail through the refuge. If you want to stretch your legs a bit there are two loop trails beginning from this road. During the spring and early summer some of this area may be closed due to bald eagles nesting. Even so, you are able to take a short walk to a pond with a fishing platform. Take a pair of binoculars and you may even catch a glimpse of our majestic national bird.
Don't worry, you're almost there. In another three miles you'll be at the ferry dock where the Currituck-Knotts Island Ferry will take you across Currituck Sound to the North Carolina mainland. Keep your eyes open for signs to the ferry dock or you're likely to miss the right turn.
The free ferry ride is a great way to enjoy the sound on a beautiful day -- but get there early on a nice weekend, as the ferry can only carry 18 vehicles. Park your car in line and get out to gaze over the sparkling waters of the Sound. When you see the ferry arriving, head back to your car.
If you've never driven a car onto a ferry, don't sweat it. Just watch the ferry attendants and do what they tell you. After the ferry gets under way you are free to get out and walk about the boat, and can either relax in one of the two enclosed cabins or check out the view from the deck or topside viewing areas. It even has vending machines and restrooms. Not bad for free.
The ferry will dock in the town of Currituck. Turn right out of the ferry dock and check out the "Old Currituck Jail" on the right. It was built in the 1820s and is one of the oldest jails in North Carolina. Just after the jail you'll come to Route 168. Turn left if you want to continue south to the Outer Banks, turn right to head home to Hampton Roads. Heading north, Route 168 turns into Battlefield Blvd., which takes you through Chesapeake to I-64.
Particulars:
The circuit drive will take anywhere from three to five hours, depending upon how often you stop. From the Princess Anne-General Booth intersection it's about 45 minutes to an hour of leisurely driving to the ferry. You can be back in Hampton Roads in 30-45 minutes after the ferry docks at Currituck. It makes a nice afternoon drive. But, hey, don't push it. Give into the spirit of wanderlust and slow down a bit.
The Pungo Strawberry Festival is usually held in May. Info is available at 721-6001 or www.pinn.net/pungo_strawberry_festival/.
Munden Point Park is open from sunrise until sundown. Canoes can be rented for $1.50 per half hour. The park's phone number is 426-5296.
Mackay Island National Wildlife Refuge is open year-round, but major portions are closed during the winter season. The refuge loop trails may be closed due to wildlife nesting (such as the bald eagles). Portions of the refuge are open to fishing. The visitor center is open from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Phone: 919-429-3100.
The Currituck-Knotts Island ferry is free and leaves from Knots Island daily at 7:00 and 10:00 a.m.; noon; and 2:00, 4:30, and 6:30 p.m. The crossing takes 45 minutes. Bicycles and pedestrians may travel on the ferry. For further schedule information call 1-800-293-3779 or surf to www.dot.state.nc.us/transit/ferry.
The Knotts Island Ruritans host a Peach Festival on the last weekend
in July. If you are traveling during the festival weekend be sure to get
to the ferry extra-early to reserve your place in line.
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