Fish Stories: A winter whale watch trip leaves visitors out in the cold
© 1999 By Brian Wasson
Winter may not seem like the best time to willingly head out on the cold, open Atlantic Ocean. But, if you are interested in catching sight of one of the world's largest animals, it's the prime time!
Many people are familiar with the Virginia Marine Science Museum's summer dolphin watching trips. These trips, popular with tourists and locals alike, take sightseers out on the ocean to view Virginia Beach's water mascots.
But in winter most dolphins take their vacations in warmer waters, leaving whales to take center stage on the museum-sponsored boat trips. The museum arranges the charter boats and provides an interpreter and several on-board guides.
Taking advantage of a recent 60-degree Sunday afternoon, my wife and I joined a boatload of eager people in search of whales in the waters off the resort area. While waiting for our boat to load, we were regaled with tales from returning watchers.
"They did everything but jump in the boat," enthused one man. "We got lots of great pictures."
Buoyed by such reports, we eagerly piled onto the boat and scored a prime seat toward the front. We settled back for the brief trip out Rudee Inlet and into the Atlantic ocean. Brooke Vallaster, the museum interpreter on board for our trip, informed us we would be heading a few miles out in search of the cetaceans, but that whales are often elusive and no sightings were guaranteed.
We were on the lookout for young humpback and fin whales, the most common whales in the area, according to Vallaster. But don't let the term "young" fool you. These whales can be 30 to 40 feet long. Adult whales head to the Caribbean to breed, but younger whales don't make the long trip, choosing instead to hang out in Virginia (see, all those tourism ads do pay off). I can't help but think that the adults just want a vacation without the kids, but hey, I'm no marine biologist.
The juvenile whales come to the Virginia waters to feed on the fish-laden waters at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, where they munch on menhaden, anchovies and other small fish that frequent the coast. On occasion dolphins and even harbor seals are seen on the trips.
We were given clear instructions on what to look for: slick spots on the water which show a whale's track, "blow" from when a whale surfaces to breathe (they are air-breathing mammals, don't forget), flippers, fins, etc. For the first hour or so most of the passengers eagerly scanned the horizon for signs of the beasts. But after no sightings, people began to get discouraged, choosing to head inside to get a hot chocolate or even take a nap.
But still we remained optimistic. We looked at the birds (gannets, cormorants, terns, and even the exotic seagulls), took in the view of the resort area, and enjoyed the winter sunshine. We remarked on how this winter whale watch was warmer than summer whale watches we'd done in Alaska and Maine. We even got to play with a cool dolphin skull that museum volunteers were passing around. But, sadly, no whales were in sight.
Our time almost up, we began heading back, when suddenly the boat swung around and sped up, heading back to where we had just come from. A buzz went around the boat. They must have spotted one! Binoculars came up, cameras were poised, people crowded the rails.
But we were not rewarded for our optimism. Whale-less, we returned to Rudee Inlet.
We were disappointed that we didn't see any whales, but we're dealing with nature here, not a Disney theme park. Whales don't perform on cue. That's what makes sighting one so exciting. The thrill of the hunt and all that. Perhaps timing had something to do with it. Deb Perry, a spokesperson for the museum, said approximately 75 percent of the tours see whales. But, she said, the ratios are in favor of the morning trips when the whales seem to be more active.
As we pulled into our slip, another tour was boarding on an adjacent boat. The neophytes looked as eager as we had, and perhaps reacting to our grim expressions, shouted "did you see any?"
"They did everything but jump in the boat," I was tempted to reply, now a sea-hardened whale watch veteran. But I didn't. I figured I'd let them live their own whaling adventure.
Particulars:
The whale watch boat trips are run by the Virginia Marine Science Museum. Reservations and information are available by calling 757-437-BOAT. Tours are offered on Wednesdays and Fridays at 3:30 p.m., at varying times on Saturdays and Sundays, and on President's Day. Tours leave from the Virginia Beach Fishing Center at Rudee Inlet, and continue through March.
According to museum staff person Janet Schroeder, it's best to call as early in the week as possible, as tours fill up quickly. If there is enough demand the museum may add additional tours on a given day. Last minute reservations and walk-ups are accepted, but space is not guaranteed. The cost is $14 for adults, $12 for children 11 and under.
Even on a mild winter day, it can be cold on the boat. Be sure to dress warmly and bring along a hat, gloves, and a scarf. There is limited seating inside the boat, so plan to be outside most of the time, either standing or sitting on hard benches. Of course, bring along binoculars and a camera if you have them.
And don't forget to think positive, whale-friendly thoughts!
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