(Above: a typical stretch of the Alcan in BC and parts of the
Yukon: nothing but road and skinny trees.)
(Above: a typical stretch of the Alcan in BC and parts of the
Yukon: nothing but road and skinny trees.)
Note: This was a response to someone who e-mailed me about driving to Alaska. I'm posting it here in the hopes it will be of help to someone else. It's hardly the definitive guide to Alaska, just some of my opinions and thoughts. This was written in 1997, so it is somewhat out of date; but, hopefully the general info will still be helpful.
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Basic Stuff
First of all; if you haven't gotten it yet, go out and
buy "The Milepost." It's about $20, but well worth it. It details all the
roads in the North and gives you mile-by-mile descriptions of them. It's available
at most large bookstores. Also, the best guidebook we've found is by Moon Publications,
called the Alaska/Yukon Handbook. Lonely Planet's guide is good, too, but I
think Moon's is better.
Be aware that there are LOTS of people traveling to Alaska in summer. You'll
be amazed at all the RV's. Campgrounds fill up quickly, but there are plenty
of non-official places to camp, especially if you have an RV or a van or such.
Just pull over on the shoulder and you should be fine. We usually pitched a
tent beside our truck and slept there.
Weather shouldn't be a problem in the Summer. A summer day in the North is like
a spring or fall day in the Northeast; although it does occasionally get up
in the 90s during July. Nights are cold, though (occasionally as low as 20F
in the mid-Interior). Take lots of layers to deal with the changing weather.
Mid to late August it can get down to 20 degrees at night, and you'll have the
chance of snow (which will probably melt the same or next day).
Gas is absolutely no problem to find. It can be pretty expensive, especially
in Canada. The further away from a town, the more expensive. Fuel in Canada
is generally a lot more expensive, due to the taxes. And, don't forget that
in Canada it's sold by the liter, not the gallon (a little less than four liters
equals a gallon). It would be a good idea to take along a 5 gallon can just
to be safe. Fill up whenever you can as you get farther north; gas is about
the same price everywhere so you don't save by waiting. Gas in Alaska ranges
from reasonable in Anchorage to very expensive in the more rural areas. Click
the following links to find current gas prices in Alaska,
B.C., and Alberta.
All the stories you hear about the Alcan are pretty much not
true anymore; it's a well-maintained road, except where there is construction.
The only non-paved parts are the construction zones. I'd recommend getting plastic
headlight covers or some other means of protecting your front end. Also cover
your grill with wire mesh or similar to keep rocks from getting to your radiator.
We drove an Isuzu Trooper and I got a grille guard and put screening on it to
protect the whole front end. We did get a small chip in the windshield, but
I had more chips in the windshield from driving in PA behind salt trucks than
in the North!
Driving the Alcan
We went up through Montana, getting in to Canada near
Glacier National Park. If you need to change money do so in Great Falls, Montana,
as they seem to have the best rates since they do it so often. However, I've
always found it easier to use ATMs to get money along the way; you'll get a
better exchange rate, too. Calgary is a nice town to stop in for a shower/motel
and some sight-seeing; really, it's a good size city with a cosmopolitan feel.
Banff and Jasper national parks are worth a side trip to see. We took a little-used
shortcut through Grand Cache which drops you off near Grand Prairie. It wasn't
paved when we drove it (1994), but I hear it is now. "The Milepost"
has a trip log listed under "Bighorn Highway."
If you don't mind driving out of your way, Dawson City, Yukon, (not to be confused
with Dawson Creek, BC)
is a GREAT place to visit. After Whitehorse, YT, you hang a right and in about
5 hours get to Dawson. It was the scene of the Klondike gold rush of 1898 and
is being restored by Parks Canada. Excellent walking tours with guides. From
there you can take a free ferry across the Yukon river and then take the Top
of the World Highway through the upper YT and into Alaska. It's all gravel,
pretty rough and narrow in spots, but it's the prettiest road I've ever been
on. They re-grade it in the beginning of June after the winter so it should
be in OK shape by the time you get there. We've driven it in May and it can
be in pretty bad shape on the U.S. side. It only adds about 100 miles onto the
route over taking the Alcan and is well worth it. (Note: if you've got a big
RV rig and don't feel comfortable on narrow, gravel mountain roads, think twice.
I've seen Tractor-Trailers on it, though, so big vehicles can get through with
no problems.) From Dawson City to Alaska is only a couple of hours, and you
can make Tok, Alaska in maybe four or so. There are a couple of really nice
BLM (Bureau of Land Management) free campgrounds along this road, too. Beware,
though, gas in Dawson is usually quite expensive as they truck fuel down from
Fairbanks.
Everyone seems to stop in Tok,
which is the "gateway to Alaska." Treat yourself to the Gateway Salmon
Bake there. Excellent ribs and Salmon, all you can eat. Check out the Texaco
across the street for coupons. Fast Eddie's is also really good for pizza, burgers,
salad bar, and similar fare.
In and Around Alaska
In Alaska take in Fairbanks, which is a pretty cool town (calling it a city is pushing it).
If you're in the mood and have the time the Haul Road/Dalton Highway north will
take you up to the Arctic Circle and into some truly unspoiled terrain. Watch
out for the trucks hauling supplies to the oil fields, they don't stop for anything!
Denali is beautiful, but very crowded. The shuttle busses are expensive and
hard to get a seat on. Camp outside the park and drive in as far as you can
on the access road. If you like hiking park there and ask directions to "Primrose
Ridge," which makes a great day hike. On one occasion we saw a pack of
about 20 Dall Sheep rams which like to hang out up there (see
a photo).
The Denali Highway across the center of the state is one of the nicest roads
scenery-wise in Alaska. It's gravel, but not too bad. When driving on gravel
keep it slow to avoid tire troubles (and cracked windshields). A couple nice,
free, BLM campsites along there, too. Beware: mid-August is hunting season in
Alaska and lots of Anchorage-ites head out to the wilds and fill up many of
the good (i.e. free) campsites.
Anchorage
is a good rest stop, despite what you may hear. It's got all your big city amenities;
Taco Bell, Wal-Mart, etc. You'll love the gas prices after driving through Canada.
Lodging is fairly expensive there, although many new hotels and motels have
been built in the past few years. Campgrounds are few. The city campground on
the outskirts is crummy, but convenient. Oh, if you hear rural Alaskans referring
to "Town" chances are it's Anchorage, where most people go to shop.
Stock up on food there as the prices are the most reasonable; Fred Meyer, Carr's,
Safeway and Wal-Mart all are represented in Anchorage.
Heading South, the Kenai Peninsula is really nice, albeit crowded. Swing by
the Alyeska Ski Resort on the way; there is a great soup place there. Also check
out Portage glacier, run by the Forest Service. A really good movie at the visitor
center (used to be free, now they charge a dollar or so). The glacier has receded
a lot in recent years, but you may still be able to grab some glacier ice out
of the melt pond for your cooler. Some good (not free) NFS campgrounds around
there, too. Seward is beautiful and worth going to; Homer isn't nice if you
have the time. They both get crowded on weekends or holidays (July 4th, especially
in Seward). Budget for a glacier boat trip, it's worth the high price ($75-$100
per person).
East from Anchorage (via the Glenn Hwy.) is a very nice drive. From Anchorage
to Glennallen (the next town) is about 200 miles. You'll follow the Matanuska
River most of the way, eventually passing Matanuska Glacier. For lunch stop
at Long Rifle Lodge for a good burger and a great view of the glacier out their
picture window (they even have binoculars). From the outside it looks like rough
and tumble bar, but inside it's nice. Lots of Alaska place are like that, so
don't always judge a book by its cover. Another good place to eat is Eureka
Summit Lodge, great pies and reasonable food. Check out all the moose hunting
rigs parked beside the lodge. Heading east you'll come over a hill and suddenly
see the Wrangell range. A beautiful sight on a clear day! I think the Glenn
Highway from Anchorage to Glennallen, and then the Richardson to Valdez is one
of the prettiest drives in Alaska.
Glennallen is a nice little town at the intersection
of the Glenn and Richardson Highways. It's also the gateway for the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest in the US. The local radio station (the only one)
is KCAM-AM 790 which does weather quite often, as well as "Caribou Clatters"
which are often interesting messages sent to people in the bush without telephones.
It's like listening in on people's lives! There is a supermarket (good selection,
moderate prices); a nice new motel, a couple restaurants, and three gas stations.
The cheapest gas in town is usually at the Quick Stop Truck Stop, about a mile
North of the junction on the Richardson Hwy. North on the Richardson about 5
miles takes you to the Gulkana river, with good Salmon fishing; there's also
a campground up there that's nice. South takes you toward Valdez. Stop in at
the Chamber of Commerce booth at "The Hub" for good local information.
There is a small parade July 4 in Glennallen as well as a free Salmon bake in
the town park.
Stop at the overlook about 2 miles south of Glennallen for a great look at the
Wrangells and the Copper River, one of the larger rivers in Alaska. You can
also camp back in there for free if you want. Don't get too close to the edge,
though, as it's a long way down to the Copper River and the cliffs are unstable.
Southbound go through Copper Center (don't take the bypass around it), an old
Native village with two decent free museum-type places; the Copper Center Museum
and Chapel on the Hill (with a good, free slide show on the area). The Wrangell-St.
Elias NP headquarters is in Copper Center, too, right off the bypass. Copper
Center was the first stop on the Gold Rush route from Valdez, and was a booming
gold rush town at the turn of the century.
A worthwhile side trip is down to McCarthy and Kennicott
in the middle of the Wrangell-St. Elias NP. From Chitina, It's a 60 mile trip
down a gravel road (an old railroad bed) to get there. You used to have to pull
yourself across the river on a hand-powered tram, but no more, as the state
put in a pedestrian bridge in 1996. It's easier, but lacks some of the adventure
of the tram. The town of McCarthy is to the right after you cross the two bridges,
where you can find lodging and food. Kennicott is about four miles uphill from
McCarthy (van shuttles are available in McCarthy). It's a really cool ghost
town, but getting VERY popular with tourists so try to go midweek if possible.
A comprehensive guide
to the McCarthy Road is on the National Park Service's site. If you go South
from Chitina the abandoned railroad bed continues in a very rough condition
for about 10 miles or so. Don't do it in an RV. High clearance is necessary,
4x4 even better. A few stream crossings and steep grades. Some really neat old
tunnels and railroad trestles remain. This road has only recently been opened
up (well, around 10 years) and is pretty neat. There was talk for a while about
reopening the old railway bed all the way to Cordova, but I haven't heard any
more about that.
Valdez is a must-see. The town itself
is not that impressive, but its surroundings and the drive to get there are
spectacular. It's also well-known as the terminus of the Alaska Pipeline. Tours
of the Terminal used to be available, but due to security concerns it is no
longer possible (you aren't missing a whole lot). To get a nice view of Valdez
Harbor turn onto the side road off the Richardson Highway to the Terminal (on
your left if you are going toward Valdez). There's a campground down thee, and
plenty of places to fish. If you can afford it take one of the boat tours out
on Prince William Sound for great Sea Otter and Seal sightings.
When driving back Outside (the lower 48), consider the Cassiar Highway.
It goes through absolutely beautiful country in BC, and is half gravel,
half paved. It's what the Alcan used to be like, I'm told. You pick it up
near Watson Lake, BC and it takes you south through B.C. toward Vancouver
and Seattle.