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Day 1: Friday, May 21 to
We went to the underground train station at the airport
and caught the S-1 train to the Munich Hauptbahnhof (main train station),
where we would transfer to a regional train to Regensburg, and then to
yet another train to Pilsen, CZ. It's no problem taking bikes on the S-bahn
lines on off-peak hours and on weekends. Look for the bike symbol on the
side of the train to find the appropriate car, usually at the front and
rear of the train. There are seats that fold up to allow bikes to fit
on; if people are sitting in the seats and there are other seats available,
it's perfectly acceptable to ask them to move (whether they do or not
is another thing). We've never had a problem taking the tandem on the
train from the airport.
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| The S-bahn train from Munich airport to the main station. Note the folded-up seats making a nice bike storage area. We use a bungie cord to secure the bike. |
Our Schones Wochenende ticket allowed us to ride the
S-bahn without an additional payment, but otherwise we would have had
to buy a ticket for the ride into Munich. With a normal ticket it's very
important to remember to stamp it with the time and date in one of the
ticket-stamping machines at the entrance to the platforms. If you don't,
you risk a steep fine if a ticket inspector comes by (normally there are
no conductors or ticket inspectors on the train). If you are only taking
the train into central Munich, the fare
is 9.50 euro per person each way; however, you can buy an all-day
pass good for the Munich
city system ("MVV") for 9 euros/person, or a group ticket
good for up to five people for 16 euros. I never understood why it's cheaper
to buy an all-day pass (9 euro) than a one-way ticket (9.50 euro).
Most station stops are announced in German, but when
you get to the main stops in the city center there will also be announcements
made in English. In any event, it's easiest to keep track of where you
are by looking at the route maps posted in each train car. Info about
the S-bahn system from the airport to the city center is available
online.
The transfer from the S-bahn to the Regensburg train
in the Munich
Hauptbahnhof was no problem, with about 20 minutes and only a
few tracks to transfer. We simply wheeled the bike along the boarding
platforms to get from train to train. The Regensburg train was one of
the newer DB double-decker trains, with a compartment on the lower level
marked for bikes where the seats folded up. There were a few other bikes
on the train, but plenty of room. The train was not due to leave for 20
minutes, so while waiting we bought two Doner Kebabs (like a gyro) for
lunch in the station and ate them on the train (good, but messy). The
Munich train station is large and bustling, with trains arriving from
and departing to exotic destinations throughout Europe. It has many food
choices, from restaurants to small kiosks selling take-away food. Car
rental agencies are on the top level, the U-bahn (subway) is on the lower
level, and most longer-distance trains are on the main level. There’s
even a left-luggage
service here, too.
At Regensburg the train to Pilsen (Plzen in Czech) was
waiting at the same platform, but to our surprise had no baggage car or
other setup for bikes (the reservation agent in Munich said the train
carried bikes). I was a bit worried, but the conductor told us to put
the tandem in the entry area of the last car. It barely fit and blocked
entrance to one of the doors. There would definitely have been a problem
if there were multiple bikes needing to be carried. The Czech railways
cars were old and dingy, smelled like smoke, and had faded and torn upholstery
in the couchette compartments. A far cry from the modern DB train we had
just ridden. But, it was clean and functional. Thankfully, we had a compartment
to ourselves for the entire ride.
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| The Czech Railways train from Regensburg to Pilzen (continues to Prague, but we got off at Pilzen to spend the night). |
At
We arrived at the Pilsen
"Hlavni nadrazi" (main station) around
 |
| Pilzen Hlavni nadrazi (main station). Trains arrive on the upper levels. |
After getting our tickets and the time of the train to
I went in to ask about a room and was offered a 1540ck
(around $60) double room with breakfast. Not as cheap as we had hoped,
but at this point in our travels we were not in a mood to shop around.
Hotel Slovan is a big, old, formerly grand hotel from the 1890s with high
ceilings and an ornate staircase with columns. Our room was huge, with
a chandelier and a sitting area with a leather sofa and chairs! While
the hotel had definitely seen better days, its overall atmosphere was
neat, with big double doors to each room and a feeling of lost grandeur.
Ginny remarked that you could imagine cold-war bigwigs or WWII occupiers
staying there. The staff was friendly and helpful, and directed us to
a secure room where we could store the tandem. We'd stay there again.
We hadn't eaten for over eight hours and it was now past
Daily costs 5/22:
Train: DB Schones Wochenende ticket: 30 euros; bike pass on DB system:
6 euros (2x3 euros);