Biking the Tauern Bike Path (Tauernradweg), Austria / © 2005 by Brian Wasson

Wow, what a day. We awoke to a steady, cold rain and a low cloud cover. We didn't want to get out of bed, much less ride the bike. We ate breakfast slowly, and hung out until 9:00 a.m. waiting for another miracle like yesterday. We debated once more about taking the train to Salzburg (that's the problem with having such great train service- you always have an out!). We decided to ride, though, and packed-up and headed out into the dismal day. It was really more of a drizzle, but continuous and cold.

The first mile or so out of Werfen is all uphill, which added to our already downtrodden spirits. We stopped at the top at the big parking lot for Burg Werfen (the resident castle) to regroup, and then headed off down the hill with the drum brake on (since the rim brakes weren't doing too much in the rain). Not too much fun, as we had to keep the speed down to be safe. I remember this being a pretty ride from last year, but this year all we see is rain and fog.

The route follows the road for a long time, down and up some rolling hills. Little traffic, though, as an autobahn parallels the road and siphons off most of the traffic. We passed a lonely looking tourist in a poncho coming the other way and shared grim smiles with each other.

We approached Lueg Pass, which Ginny has been dreading (anything with "pass" in its name has to be awfully steep, right?). A group of tourists passed us, about 10 in all (not carrying any bags). We geared down, and slowly made our way up the hill in our 24x34 gear. But we made it up without stopping, passing several of the single bikes en route! At the top we stopped to replenish our oxygen supply and to take a celebratory photo. The other bikers were also stopped at the top, drinking coffee dispensed by the person in their support vehicle. They didn't offer us any, even though we look like drowned rats.

I asked one to take our photo, and a lively conversation ensued for 10 minutes or so. They were a group from Vienna riding the Tauern route. One man said he rode the route a few years before, and the weather was the same. They admired the tandem and asked about the S&S couplers, which they hadn't seen before. One man pointed to our Ultegra STI shift levers and said (in German) "Like Lance Armstrong!" I assured him we are nothing like Lance.

Soaking wet at the top of Lueg Pass (553 meters or 1,814 feet: it felt higher!).

It was still raining as we started on the downhill, followed by the bikers from the group. I think they were using us as guinea pigs, figuring we would give them advance warning if we rode off a cliff at a sharp turn. We used the drag brake again (thank goodness for that!), but still got up over 30 mph. We made it down OK, but because of the rain the downhill wasn't a very good reward for riding up the pass. We missed the turnoff into town and rode the road instead, which was a better route anyway (lets you enjoy more of the downhill).

We stopped to take advantage of the WC in the train station in Golling (train stations are generally a great source of free and clean toilets) and the group passed us by, never to be seen again. We rode on a bit more, and then through the interesting small town of Kuchl, where we crossed the river and headed up into the rolling hills, passing farms and fields with grazing cows.

The smaller rolling hills got a bit bigger as we went on. Pretty, though, even with the rain, as the route directed us through verdant farmland and forests, over rushing streams and past small waterfalls. Contented, reclining cows watched us ride by, and we couldn't resist saying hello to them (we're suckers for cows for some reason). The route went through several small forested areas, and offered inviting benches on which to sit. We stopped at one for a water break, and enjoyed the quiet that comes after a rain storm passes through. We even heard a cuckoo bird calling somewhere off in the trees.

The farmland dropped behind us after a downhill stretch into the town of Hallein, where we were assaulted with urbanity and confused by a crossing and re-crossing of the river. The path led us to a funky purple pedestrian bridge across a tributary stream, turned right to cross another bridge across the main river, ducked behind a Billa supermarket, out into a parking lot and then across a busy road. We then went around a busy traffic circle and crossed the river yet again on another bridge, ending back up on the same river side we started on! We had to stop a lot and consult our map to make sure we were headed the right way. I guess this is to avoid a heavily-traveled road, but I might take my chances next time and ride the road for less confusion.

The paved riverside bike path out of Hallein turned into a gravel path through a forested park area as we got closer Salzburg. It was very pretty and serene, but the wet gravel coated the bike and played havoc with our brakes. We had a grinding noise all day from the rim brakes, even though I stopped often to clean them. As we neared Salzburg we stopped under a highway bridge to munch a "jause" (snack) of leftover meat and Semmels from breakfast that the hausfrau at our B&B kindly wrapped for us.

The final approach to Salzburg is paved bike paths and small side streets. We turned left at the main bridge across the Salzach and headed into the old town. We hung around Salzburg for an hour or so, contemplating whether to stay or press on. We wandered the streets in search of the elusive Kasekrainer, a favorite cheese-filled Wurst, with a Semmel and scharfes Senf (spicy mustard). It was lightly raining and we were still hungry and cold, so we stopped in at McDonalds along the main pedestrian shopping street (Getriedsgasse). We got a window seat so we could watch the bike (which was attracting a good deal of attention parked in the street) as we warmed up and contemplated our next move. We thought about staying in Salzburg, but it was only a bit after noon and we felt like we could easily cover more miles.

After this brief respite, we wandered down the street a bit more and found an Internet cafe where I spent 10 minutes (1.50 Euros) checking the weather to see if another part of Austria or Germany would offer nicer weather. It seemed to be raining everywhere, but blue skies were forecast for the next few days so we decided to ride a bit further to the town of Anthering, which bills itself as a "biker paradise" with lots of private Zimmers. Salzburg was crowded, rainy, and cold, and we were already soaked, so we figured why not?

Construction on the riverside path out of Salzburg (on the right side) forced us to detour out on a really busy road and to then to make a left turn using a turn lane to get back to the path. More construction along the path equaled more gravel riding. Not a happy thing! After many miles of riding on gravel without fenders, we were covered from head to toe in a fine black film. We cursed our stupidity for not installing fenders on the bike, but there wasn't anything we could do at this point.

The "bike friendly" town of Anthering had a well-signed spur trail leading to the town. The arrows pointed to the right off the riverside path and through a dark forest preserve of some sort. The area was surrounded by fencing, with prominent signs warning of "wild schweine" (wild pigs)! Great. Like we needed to be chased by half-crazed wild boars after a day of riding in the rain. Ginny looked dubiously at me, but I assured her we could beat off any porcine attack with our frame pump, so on we went.

The gate and ramp leading into the fenced forest area, with the "Attention: Wild Schweine" sign on the gate.

As if to reinforce the wild pigs notice, we were immediately confronted by the need to haul the tandem up and over a steep and slippery steel ramp, no easy feat with a long-wheelbase loaded tandem. We then rode a dirt path through the forest and had to climb back over another ramp as we neared town. I guess the ramps keep the wild piggies from midnight pillaging rampages against the good people of Anthering.

On the other side of the gate, after hauling the tandem up and over the (very slippery) ramp. If you look closely, you can see that the bike and everything else is covered in fine, black grime, since we had not installed the fenders on the tandem for this trip.

Since we're talking about the denizens of Anthering, let's discuss the warm (ha!) welcome we received in this "Biker Paradise" of a small town. After riding past several small farmsteads with "Zimmer Frei" signs out, we came to the main street and found the visitor center with hopes of having them book us a cozy room for the night. Of course, it was closed. While we stood there discussing where to stay, the skies opened up yet again with a cold, drenching rain.

We decided to ride back and seek out a room at one of the many farms with "Zimmer Frei" signs. We stopped at the first one, and after ringing the bell several times the door was opened. The hausfrau perused the two dirty, soaking-wet bikers before her and said she had nothing available. We tried the next B&B, with the same result. A third try brought us no joy, either. We were suspicious that they did have rooms, but didn't like the bedraggled, grime-covered look of us. Generally, B&Bs take down the “Zimmer Frei” sign when they are full or otherwise note that they are "besetz" for the night. But perhaps we were just being cynical.

Despairing, yet still strangely optimistic, we knocked at another house and were told "alles besetz" (full). We stood stupidly on the woman's porch looking at each other, rain dripping from our noses. Ginny looked like she was going to cry. Something in our demeanor must have moved her (probably our plaintive and pathetic looks), and she figured out a way to let us stay by moving a single guy out of a double room and installing us in it. We felt kind of bad for the unseen lodger, as the house owner quickly packed up the poor man's clothes (including his bikini underwear!) and moved it all to a smaller room.

But, we were soaked and cold, and we took what we got happily. It wasn't the greatest room, and it wasn't cheap. She knew a captive audience when she had one. We showered off the grime, washed our (formerly) white socks in the sink, put on some dry clothes, and went in search of dinner. There was only one restaurant in walking distance, a small gasthaus/bar where we were the only non-locals. The food was pretty good, though, and the service was pleasant. Ginny ordered a special dish featuring "spargel," white asparagus that is only in season for a short time.

After dinner we sloshed back to the room, where we read for a bit and then fell asleep to heavy rain, wondering what the next day would bring weather-wise.

In retrospect, we should have spent the night in Salzburg. But, I guess we would have missed out on this story. I don't recommend detouring to Anthering, as it didn't offer much choice of restaurants or rooms, and is a bit off the main track. Don't believe their advertisement in the BikeLine tour book that bills the town as a "bikers paradise." (If you've stayed there and disagree, let me know. I have a degree in journalism, which means I'll be happy to post a well-supported opposing view.) Stay in Salzburg or push on a few more miles to the much nicer town of Oberndorf.

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